Mike, since you are trashing the trans it's no big deal but tighting the flanges together with the socket between is not a good idea. Just so you know I'm not trying to be a nit picker, I will tell you I've done it too but you risk distorting the flanges. When you go to align the trans/engine to the shaft you might get it wrong. The max tolerance is .004" for a 4" flange. It's easy to bend the flange when they don't come apart easy.
Ship: Thanks for the reply. When I get the shaft shortened, I will take the shaft coupling flange to the machine shop to ensure it is not bent. It took me another 4 hours to get the coupling off the shaft using fine thread bolts.
With the flange off the shaft, and rudder removed, I have the prop still attached to the shaft and using a harmonic puller cannot get the prop off. I do not have anything to heat the prop hub. I am going to take it to the machinist to get him to remove the prop. And, yes, I have the shaft on a flat surface work bench with the prop hanging at the edge of the bench.
I'm wondering if a machine shop has some magic to put the hub back on to make it easier to remove. And, no, I don't want to use a split coupling but will ask the machinist.
And BTW, there is no nit-picking when doing things the right way on a boat.
Mike