New Member - Mako 23IB refit/repower

Discussion in 'Non-Shamrock / Inboards Den' started by Noel in CT, Oct 13, 2020.

  1. Noel in CT

    Noel in CT Member

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    Hi guys, new member here. I came here because of the inboard-centric topics. Classic Mako does have a few inboards which I'm a member of, but inboards seem to be exception there.

    I've been working on my Mako '76 IB for a bit. Repowering from my last repower 15 years or so ago. Back then, I shoe-horned a Chrysler M440 in place of the seized Merc Bluewater 260 HP. The 330 hp from the M440 was nice, but it's excessive weight (ballast?) and size was a challenge.

    I took her out last year for a scrape and clean, and it turned into a repower. I located a NOS Pleasurecraft Seamax 330hp for the right price and snagged it. That was in March, just before I had to start wearing a stupid mask. Since then I raised 6" and reglassed my console and aft boxes and panels, rewired everything, replaced t-tabs, and other odds/ends. Now I'm almost set for a sea-trial.

    I have a few pics that I collected that I'll post up once I figure out process.
     
  2. fisherlady2

    fisherlady2 Well-Known Member

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    Welcome aboard! There are a few current and ex Mako folks here. They are a good solid boat and our 2110 was great, but just got too wet for the cold weather on Lake Erie so I found our 26 HT as my dream boat for fishing our waters.
    I know that another member here, cw.abeljr had a mako IB, i think his was a 23.
    I am looking forward to seeing your project. Hope the sea trial goes well and gets you back to the water soon.
     
  3. Noel in CT

    Noel in CT Member

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    Thanks for your nice reply fisherlady2,

    Here is a little taste of what I've been doing.
    After re-glassing helm area of console and moving switches up to helm, I wanted to make use of the space that the switches consumed, just right of the glove box. So I cut the glove box section in half, and fused it to the area where switches were. Then I finished it up. That more than doubled the glove box.
    I'll post up more pics as I have time.
    ,Noel. 20200610_173349.jpg 20200612_094659.jpg 20200612_094649.jpg 20200612_162013.jpg 20200614_131642.jpg
     
  4. Noel in CT

    Noel in CT Member

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    Here's some pics of work I did on console. Unfortunately, I don't have any ugly "before" shots. Keep in mind, I cut and lifted the console 6 inches, then glassed and faired it in. But I'm sure you guys know what 45 year old consoles look like. I then sent it out to a body shop to shoot with Epiphanes 2-part epoxy. I don't have skill, or bug and dust free space for that.
    20200710_064056.jpg 20200714_160028.jpg 20200723_112251.jpg 20200723_112332.jpg
     
  5. Rejoice

    Rejoice Well-Known Member

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    Welcome aboard, you are doing some beautiful work. Keep us posted.
    Rich
     
  6. crhodes

    crhodes Well-Known Member

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    Obviously you area good fit with this forum! Welcome!
     
  7. Noel in CT

    Noel in CT Member

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    Here's some more pics.

    I moved the batteries aft. Although you can't see this in pic, I glassed up a couple of strips of PT decking ripped to about 1" x 1" and used them as cleats. These are holding a 3/4" plywood sheet (also glassed) behind the rear bulkhead, holding the batteries. I anchored the batteries with 3/8 sst threaded rod, and some handy battery hold downs from NAPA. Nice new 1/0 battery cables too. I floated solder into the lugs and heat-shrinked the terminals. Also in pic forward of bulkhead is a really nice flushing device, offered from Perko. I have it plumbed to a garden-hose fitting mounted on console. No more disconnecting water intake hose to test engine out of water.
    20201016_092616.jpg

    I moved the Racor outboard of the stb center stringer. I have new fuel valves for port and stb tanks, and I plumbed in a 3rd valve in case I ever need to run an auxiliary tanks.

    20201016_092706.jpg

    I picked this engine up as New Old Stock, from a guy who bought out a shop. There was an initial problem with the fuel/FCC system, but I just sorted it out yesterday. Low pressure pump wasn't supplying FCC and high pressure pump. I swapped pump, filled and bled FCC, fired her up and she stayed running. Yay! I bought engine bob-tail and used my old 10-18 1:1 Borg-Warner gear. Because of all the electronic controls, I was worried about the shift cable chaffing on wires. So I ran shift cable through a length of PEX tubing, from the Depot. Now shift cable contacts inside of tubing, rather than my precious wires.

    20201016_095014.jpg

    I installed a Blue Seas Systems Automatic Switching Relay, and on/off switch. In the past I would draw down my GPS and radio during a restart. This device has a wire to start position on key-switch that isolates house and start batteries so draw down won't happen again. Also, I tried to keep the wiring somewhat neat, considering the limited space. I still need to make up some labels for the terminal strips. If someone out there has access to a plastic engraver, I'd like to talk with you.

    20201016_094802.jpg

    That's all for now. I hope to perform an actual sea-trial next week end, weather permitting. Then she'll be winterized and ready for next season.
    Oh, right. Here she is on trailer this past Saturday in Hartford. Had fuel issue, so trial didn't happen. I'll work on cleaning her up and cosmetics over the winter.
    20201017_110003.jpg
    That's all for now.
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2020 at 7:57 AM
    redneck likes this.
  8. fishineer

    fishineer Well-Known Member

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    Your boat, new engine, modifications and capabilities are impressive. When convenient for you could you share more information about your experience with Epiphanes. It is a new product to me.

    Also, I noticed your tan sole (deck) which is similar to the deck color used on Shamrocks manufactured in the 70's. Have you painted yours? If so can you share some info about how you did it? It looks nice.
     
  9. Noel in CT

    Noel in CT Member

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    Thanks for your kind words fishineer.

    I had the Epiphanes sprayed on my console by a body shop. I don't have the talent, space, or tools for that. But I did purchase the Epiphanes from my favorite fiberglass supply guy. I could send his name. He'd be happy to answer application questions for you. I didn't choose a normal collision guy for painting, but I looked for someone who specialized in custom odd-ball work with experience in corvettes. So I didn't shoot it myself.

    As for the deck, your compliment makes me chuckle. The Mako site guys abhor the "mustard deck". Mine is original and I waffle back and forth about cutting the floor out and glassing in a new one. There are a couple of soft spots, but they're not crazy. I would like to cut the old foam out though that is probably water laden. So I do sometimes dream of improving the boat beyond its real worth. But, for now it'll remain mustard.

    If you are going to do some gel-coating though, I picked up a technique for pigmenting the stark white stock gel-coat.
    >I put some gel-coat in a wax dixie cup before adding catalyst, and add color pigment (yellow/maybe w/black for this case) one drop at a time. I give it a thorough stir and place one drop onto color that you want to match. If it's too light, I add another drop of pigment to gel-coat and repeat. I keep adding a drop to gel-coat until I cannot tell mix from color match surface. Then I add catalyst and roller it on with a foam roller. The dots that you used for color match will wipe right off with some acetone. I hope that helps answer your question.
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2020 at 1:53 PM
  10. crhodes

    crhodes Well-Known Member

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    Regarding the new 3rd valve for running off an auxiliary tank, may I suggest you essentially cap the barb using a short section of hose with a plug in case the valve were to accidentally get hit and opened. Will keep gas/fumes out of the bilge.
     
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