BIG 1996 Shamrock 220 WA Project

Discussion in 'General Conversation' started by boataddict, Aug 17, 2021.

  1. boataddict

    boataddict Well-Known Member

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    I did cross jump the solenoid and got nothing so they must both be at fault. Also the solenoid itself is getting 12 volts believe me I started there. So both are getting replaced.
     
  2. seatux

    seatux Well-Known Member

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    Good Deal, your on the right path!
     
  3. fishineer

    fishineer Well-Known Member

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    FWIW something you may want to try - The starter can be replaced from front of engine with long socket extensions and a piece of all-thread rod. Disconnect Battery. Photograph wiring connections on starter and remove them. Back out the bolt at top of starter; screw in all-thread rod. Remove bottom starter bolt and slide starter forward hanging on the all-thread rod. Reverse to install new starter. Mechanic gloves might reduce the need for bandaids. Also, do your homework and carefully select the correct replacement starter.
     
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  4. Ship

    Ship Well-Known Member Supporting Captain

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    I have used this method and wish I could remember all the times I should have.
     
  5. boataddict

    boataddict Well-Known Member

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    I guess I'll need to take the old one out before I order a new one. Not sure which one to buy exactly and would hate to order the wrong one.
     
  6. fishineer

    fishineer Well-Known Member

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    Its Labor Day and a gozillion weekend/holiday boaters are crowding the waterways, so I 'll wait to tomorrow to go out and take a minute to share some starter management strategies.

    Starters have been a recurring problem on inboards with bottom mounted starters. Some owners have been very lucky and found the flywheels, bell housings, ring gears, etc... parts to modify and move their starter to the stern side of the flywheel above the engine shaft; you might hear this called a top mounted starter. I unsuccessfully chased that rabbit a couple of years ago and gave up because the parts are very hard to find, and each time you dis-assemble and re-assemble the components only to learn the parts don't quite work is frustrating. So I focused on keeping the bilge as dry as possible.

    I added a Rule 900LP low profile bilge pump to the lowest point on top of the keel in the inside forward area with a discharge hose and thru-hull fitting; this is the same area on the inside the bottom of the boat that some people add Garboard Drains for storing their boats out of the water. Since I did not want to modify my switch panel or mount another switch, I piggy backed the manual power wire for the LP900 to the existing manual connection tab on the existing forward bilge pump switch. I thought I might need to up the fuse amperage, but so far the existing fuse has been adequate. I originally wired the 900LP pump for automatic, but the self contained auto on/off idiot switch would run continuously if the slightest bit of bilge film tricked the pump into thinking it was submerged, calling for power. I can easily check the bilge visually and have noticed that if I manually pump the bilge before I leave the dock the bilge water is minimal and if I do observe water while I am out that is too low for the original forward bilge pump (mounted under the front of the engine) to automatically turn-on and pump the water out, I just turn-on the manual switch until the water stops flowing out the new forward-bow pump thru-hull fitting. Now my bilge stays very dry unless I take a wave over the bow, but any of that water not handled by the scupper drains can be shifted to the stern bilge pump with a little engine power to raise the bow temporarily.

    One other measure to keep the bilge dry was to fine tune the stuffing box using new packing and an inexpensive handheld infrared digital thermometer to monitor the temperatures of the shaft and the stuffing box while I adjust the tightness and ran the boat wide open for extended periods of time. Now I might get about a drop of water every minute and the temperatures do not exceed 100 degrees on a hot day. I have thought about clamping a temperature sensor to the stuffing box and monitoring the temps at the helm because over time the corrosion and wear may add some friction and cause the temperatures to increase. I do not want to overheat the shaft and cause a failure. Currently I check the temperatures once/twice a year on hot summer days.
     
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  7. Ship

    Ship Well-Known Member Supporting Captain

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    Times two.
     
  8. boataddict

    boataddict Well-Known Member

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    Does anyone know what starter I need? Didn't have time to get the old one off this weekend, would like to get the new one ordered.
    1996 Indmar 5.7 TBI
     
  9. boataddict

    boataddict Well-Known Member

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    Ordered the new starter, Indmar #571006.

    I also spent some time this past weekend tracking down electrical gremlins. After putting in the new battery I had only the horn and one bilge blower working. Some investigation revealed the circuit breakers were at fault, so I'm ordering a whole new set to replace all of them as well.
     
  10. boataddict

    boataddict Well-Known Member

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    Weekend Update:
    Today I finished installing the new starter. It took me a total of maybe 3 hours of work between removing and reinstalling the riser and manifold on that side-- but that seemed by far the easiest way for me to go about it. Sure enough it turned right over which was great- one step closer!

    That left me trying to start it, however raising the spark arrestor showed I was initially getting no fuel spray from either injector. I eventually got a slow drip coming from each injector but that was it. I replaced the fuel pump, as the old one sounded "off" and the previous owner had given me a replacement he intended to put in. I also replaced the in line fuel filter just before the fuel enters the TBI system. These changes did not result in any change- little to no fuel is coming from the injectors.

    In fact, when I remove the fuel lines going into the TBI regulator it does not seem like I am getting much fuel to them at all. I have tried cranking the engine with one of the lines disconnected and got no fuel coming from the line. I notice there is what looks like a valve or maybe a second pump of some sort that there is a return fuel line also running to. Do you think this could be the problem? I know I'm getting fuel from the tank and through the new main fuel pump, but it doesn't seem like I am getting strong flow once the lines switch to high pressure fuel lines.

    There was an electrical connection at the start of the high pressure fuel lines which I checked and is receiving power upon ignition- so no wiring problem there. Any and all advice is appreciated. I know my injectors may need to be overhauled also, but I don't think I'm feeding them enough fuel to tell just yet.

    As always, thanks for any and all input!
     

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