I opened up the impeller housing to see what I was working with. I planned to replace it for sure, not too much work or $. It seems okay, not really brittle. I'm sure I'll get around to replacing it either way
I'm trying to figure out if there is a way to set up an easy hose hook up to run it on land easily, does any one have any great setups they'd like to recommend?
I take the hose off the raw water strainer and stuff a garden hose into it and clamp it down tight. Remember that at any rpm over idle or so with suck that hose flat. So go easy. Also, I use a plastic barrel with the same garden hose setup (just a short piece to stick into the barrel though) and I keep another hose running into the barrel from the spigot.
I replaced mine with a Sierra pump this year, but later found the actual part number RA057026 replacement for my engine which I’ll be purchasing soon. Not sure if this will help you https://skidim.com/sherwood-r-w-pump-crank-driven.html Look forward to your updates.
Ordered some parts to make some more steps towards (hopefully) running it. Exhaust Manifold and riser gaskets, spark plugs, belt, and water pump impeller. Also ordered a cheap in-line fuel pump which I'm going to use to pump out the tanks (don't want to gunk up the real pump), along with Star-Tron Fuel Tank Cleaner which I'll splash into each tank around Wednesday night and let work its magic. I've read it works really well at cleaning the gunk out of tanks, as long as you are flushing them out (which I am). The boat had 2 deep cycle batteries in it. They are from 2005 so they are 100% toast. I'm surprised it had deep cycle over starting batteries. Was going to start by picking up a Group 24 starting battery 1000 Marine Cranking Amps, 800 Cold Cranking Amps. Does this sound alright?
Boataddict: I was a boat builder, not a mechanic but have opinions. Getting the fuel tanks cleaned is paramount. Keep in mind that sitting still is one thing, a rocking boat and sloshing fuel is another and will stir up trash and water. It is a chore, but I would get the tanks out of the boat and find someone who can steam clean them. I regretted not doing this when I bought a 98-20'. I now have two inline fuel filters and rigged that no matter which tank I am using, fuel goes through 2 filters. This after two very expensive carburetors.
I have a lot of equipment and probably about 12 batteries. When a battery starts failing, I restore it by popping the caps off and running 24 volts through them with my old-school charger and watch them boil out the crap. An "intelligent" charger will not do it. Of course the smoke show program is done outdoors with a face shield and gloves. I think that makes it OSHA approved. Then I refill them and charge them as normal. If the batteries are cells are still intact, that may work. I use the same voltage to "spark-shock" my old cordless tool batteries that will no longer take a charge, and the original batteries are still going strong after over a decade. Or you can buy combo deep cycle/starting batteries. I always have one new battery in my boats. The other is usually one of the Frankensteins.
I splashed a few ounces of the fuel tank cleaner into each tank last night. It said to use an ounce per 4 gallons. I estimated about 20 gallons in the starboard tank and 10 in the port. We'll see how it works when I drain them this weekend.
Sorry - I took a break for Forum while the excessive bs postings were going on and posted this regarding spark plug removal before reading that you had removed the risers and manifolds. But the technique works on spark plug removal and replacement without removing risers and manifolds. Wear leather gloves, and use a breaker bar with various sizes of extensions in order for socket to make good contact with each spark plug. May have to tap, tap, tap ... the breaker bar handle with a light hammer (not a sledge hammer). It's a good sound when the plug begins to rotate.
