Hi guys. I posted a year or two ago about potentially buying my neighbor's old 220 WA that had been sitting for about 15 years. Ultimately I decided against it thanks to everyone's advice. Yet here I am today, a proud owner of a not-so-pretty-but-beautiful-to-me Shamrock 220 Walkaround! How? Well, long story short he offered it to me at a price I couldn't refuse to get it out of his driveway. I'm extremely grateful that I have the opportunity to try to get it going again. So, $350 for some tires and some broken trailer lugs later and she finally moved for the first time in well over a decade. I'm hoping to document my progress as I go here, and I could certainly gain some advice from you all, as I'm trying not to be overwhelmed. I managed to clean her up this past weekend, including removing some small saplings growing in the dirt piles on the deck. The hull is surprisingly still very solid. I still have more buffing to do on the gel coat though. It is a 1996 model, I believe it has an Indmar 350 TBI in it. Does this sound right? The engine doesn't look horrible, so I haven't completely given up saving it. However, I already broke off one spark plug, so we'll see what happens. I'm a student so money is pretty tight but I'm hoping with some serious sweat equity I can get this beauty running again. Any and all advice is appreciative, but safe to say you won't be talking me out of it this time . Thanks!
Congratulations! She cleaned up nicely. As for the engine, when was the last time it was run? If it was years ago, get the spark plugs out, squirt the cylinders and let it sit for a few days. Inspect the plugs for the previous burn conditions. Then hand turn it and feel how it moves. You could also do cylinder leakdown tests if she's smooth. That's just for starters. Carb or TBI?
Hey boataddict - Nice haul! I love the look of all the Shamrock boats I've seen with the curved windshields... If you're a student, you may want to start off inspecting everything thoroughly to get an idea of where you stand - The list will grow as you start working, but at least you'll be able to prioritize the things that need doing to get you out on the water. Once the engine runs, and you're able to get out on the water, you'll be able to get a much better handle on how you'd like to spend the money you have available. I say this because I just 'finished' refurbishing a 1989 22 ft Predator, and I think I got prematurely carried away with details like lighting, storage, seating, etc. I wound up spending much more time and money on the accoutrements than I expected to. I kind of knew that would happen, so it's all good... Also, you may want to check any sealed below deck compartments for standing water and/or fuel tank issues. Getting rid of that standing water could improve your boat's performance A LOT! Before I found and removed the water logged foam below deck in the cuddy cabin, I was topping out at around 23 mph. Now getting 30 mph at around 3900 RPM. Anyway, that's my 2 cents - Hopefully she'll start right up and need no work at all
Unfortunately the engine has not run for about 15 years. It was winterized before it sat but I suppose with this length of time that doesn't matter much. I started working on pulling the plugs, but all are seized but one so far. The one I pulled actually looked decent. The boat only had ~250 hours on it. Unfortunately I've already snapped one of the plugs so that's turning into this coming weekend's project. It is a TBI engine
I hear you, that's great advice. Other than cleaning it up and buffing the hull (better looking boat = more likely to want to work on it), I'm definitely focused on getting the engine running first and moving onto the smaller details much later on. Hopefully I can get the plugs pulled this weekend.
I do have a couple questions hopefully some of you can help me out with. Where is the best place to order parts for this engine? (1996 Indmar 350 TBI I believe) Also, do I have to remove the crank bolt mounted raw water pump in order to turn the engine over by hand? Can't seem to think of another way to do it.
Take your time with the plugs. Drip a very small amount of 1/2 brake cleaner and 1/2 PB Blaster mixture onto the plug so it runs down into the threads. Use only enough to wet the threads, but not wash into the cylinder too much. Let it soak for a day. Then try it. Once it breaks loose, work it back and forth until it stops squeaking and comes out. Use your feel. Don't force it. Drip it again and let it soak another day if that's what it takes. The rings may be seized too, but often that can be taken care of with a good oil soaking. I had the same engine. Is it a Vortec or not? Mine had the Vortec block casting but it was a non-Vortec, rated at 260HP, I think. IIRC some 1996's had Vortecs, as that was the change-over year. You can tell by the intake manifold bolt pattern of 8 bolts. It sounds like you are a young motorhead, and are prepared to attack the engine. Good for you! Mine had a blown head gasket, which resulted in cylinder and rod damage. I wound up installing a new 330HP Vortec long block, an Edelbrock Performer manifold, and slapped all the original TBI stuff on. I also added a Monitor full fresh water cooling system. The LB was $3k, the FWC was $1K+. Remanufactured can be had for less. The MEFI 2 computer had to be reprogramed for more airflow provided by the Vortec configuration (engines are air pumps with fuel for go-go, so more HP=more air needed), which cost a few hundred. If I had the time, I would have rebuilt the original motor instead - 350s are pieces of cake. I have a lightly used Vortec block that I'm planning to strip down this winter in my new shop, since I have the time now. Parts can be had at Summit or Rock Auto. Also Michigan Motorz and Go2Marine. The first two have some marine-specific parts, and the latter two will. I shopped around everywhere, and got some stuff from my local speed shop. But first, concentrate on removing the plugs with every bit of patience you can muster! It will save a lot of extra work. Then do a leakdown test. It is a most informative technique for figuring out the condition of a non-running engine.
Not familiar with the 22 but if there is not good access to the plugs would go ahead and pull the exhaust manifolds/risers so you can apply even torque to the plugs (and use the mixture noted above) without snapping off the ceramic. Doing so might prevent having to pull the heads later. Otherwise what deputyrpa said. BTW, not sure where you are located but might add that and your boat specifics to your signature. This will help others when offering advice on other future threads you are bound to have during this restoration. (See mine in the lower left of this post/response.) And yes, she cleaned up nice!
Yes, removing the exhaust manifolds will help both visual and physical access. They should be inspected and/or replaced anyway. Good tip Cecil!
