I don’t think it should be too difficult. You should be able to tilt the back of the engine up by loosening the trunion bolts on the motor mounts and chain up the back of the engine and use an engine hoist or chain hoist hung from a 4x4 across the gunwales. Just need to tilt up the back end to clear the shaft coupling. Then you can slide the trans out and have access to the bell housing. When I put my new engine in I used a combination of an engine hoist and chain host. You just need to tilt the back up so either would work.
Robert am I right to assume that is a picture of your engine and trans? Nice setup,very clean and fresh looking. Do you know or suspect the trans runs hot? I think you have the trans to cooler lines mixed up. I had to look into this on mine since some PO ran hard copper for cooler lines and I wanted to connect it back up the way PCM intended. This is what I found-
"Found out the hard way that the transmission fluid lines hooked up to the transmission cooler are required to go a certain way. I had mine hooked up backwards and overheated my tranny, fortunately shut it down before I did any major damage. The transmission fluid should run opposite the water flow. The high pressure output from the tranny, the top fitting should go to the farthest, or output end of the cooler, then the fitting on the input end of the cooler goes to the return fitting, or bottom fitting on the tranny. I discussed this with an engineer at velvet drive and he says it will run the other way, but you do risk the overheating problem. Vince and Richard at Skidim say they have seen many occasions when tranny's overheat due to inproper cooler connections".
Very interesting Gary. I went back and looked at the old trans setup and it is the same as my new engine and trans install. I labeled and took pictures so I basically copied the old setup. Sounds like it might have been setup wrong by the previous owner. I have not yet overheated the 3 years before or the 2 years after the rebuild. I appreciate you seeing that in my picture and commenting on what you saw.
I see that the dust cover is in the outside, my engine currently does not have a dust shield on the under inner side so I can actually see the lower quarter or third of flywheel when looking at the underside of the engine towards the transmission from the front. I was hoping I could install one without having to move the engine, but is it a necessity to have one? I think this is close to what I’m talking about
I'm missing the one on my GM powered 17. My friend who is the previous owner said that it had rusted and fell off. If there is water in the bilge the flywheel picks it up and flings it everywhere. I at first thought a freeze plug was out so much was flowing.
TK and Gary S: My concern is the same as Gary S, flings water everywhere. It's bad enough that the bell housing is so low that I carry a spare starter because the Bendix is constantly wet and jams if I don't keep it clean and greased. Given a short boat, there is almost no way to raise the bell housing out of bilge water, the lesser of evils.