1978 20 Open Fish Project

Island pilot

Well-Known Member
Sep 5, 2016
51
0
There is wood where the console and cover connect to the floor
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fishineer

Well-Known Member
Jul 31, 2011
198
26
Wilmington, NC
I presume the wood was for anchoring the center console and forward engine cover hinge screws to the deck? After 43 years is the wood still sound? Are the anchoring blocks encapsulated in fiberglass?
 

Island pilot

Well-Known Member
Sep 5, 2016
51
0
The wood looks good, but wet and somewhat soft.
I have remove several small parts of the deck with a jigsaw, removed about 30% of the total foam, and have made passages for water to flow to the corner where the stringers meets the foam filled voids. I'm going to insert a PVC pipe into that space for drainage and reform the compartments and glass in the floor panels.
 

Island pilot

Well-Known Member
Sep 5, 2016
51
0
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Two gallons of total boat pot foam 2lb/ft3 density and a bunch filler foam. Just ordered another 2 gallons. $120 on Amazon.
 

Island pilot

Well-Known Member
Sep 5, 2016
51
0
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Pulled fuel tank, washed it. Filled with water now for a 25hr leak check. Not sure of capacity or brand. Not sure if I should pull these two plugs. Probably a fuel sensor.
 

Island pilot

Well-Known Member
Sep 5, 2016
51
0
Had to use 5/16 stainless nuts a bolts for damper plate to flywheel. All holes were pretty bad. These are as strong as grade 5 bolts, but will they hold?
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Ship

Well-Known Member
Supporting Captain
Dec 15, 2008
11,930
301
Atlantic City, NJ area
I would use grade 8. There's a lot of torque and a good chance of impact. Btw some people think the lines on a bolt are it's grade. Not so. 3 lines grade 5 and 6 lines are grade 8. Posted this just in case.
 

Damon

Well-Known Member
Supporting Captain
Jan 26, 2003
3,242
100
San Diego, CA
It's tempting to go stainless, but I highly recommend against it. There is a chance that these will eventually fail. I'd stick with the grade 8 for at least peace of mind.
 

Island pilot

Well-Known Member
Sep 5, 2016
51
0
I’m going to dive get I nto the weeds a bit. When replacing the foam in the boat I removed about 800 pounds of wet foam. I bought 4 gallons of pourable foam, 2 pound density. I recycled any of the dry foam pieces from before, added Styrofoam pieces that I scrounged, and poured the total boat foam. The remaining sections I filled with great stuff gaps and cracks red can spray foam. It proved to be a bit flexible and would not set and firm up without water being sprayed before and after its application. Without exposure to air/humidity the foam collapses and returns to liquid. See the first picture. With water added before application it cured well, second picture. It says on the label not for boat flotation. I then messed around with sicca flex post fix which also says it’s not for boat flotation. It proved to be a bit friable once cured. That means it would turn to dust with any compressive load applied, third picture. I’ve done some testing with the sicka post fix pourable foam and it seems the best option so far is to warm the liquids to at least 70° and have the air surrounding the poor location to be a bit colder than 70° in order to limit the blowing agent’s (part of the reaction between water and diisocyanate which
expansion at the surface of the foam during cure. Just under the shiny surface is the friable foam. Under that is a nice foam. Mixing 1:1 is the recommendation. Best results with Sika Postfix was achieved by separating the contents into two separate quart cups, mixing one unit of brown with 1/2 unit of green and allowing to stand for two minutes before adding the second portion of the green and thoroughly mixing again. I mix with a Makita drill on speed number one with a tool rack holder for a paddle.

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