1978 20 Open Fish Project

fishineer

Well-Known Member
Jul 31, 2011
198
26
Wilmington, NC
Good morning Gentlemen,

I am back at it. Family issue pushed back the work. Tried to start boat with good battery and jumped it with a running silverado. Only got a thunk sound from the starter. Pulled plugs, shot WD40 into each cylinder. Will try again in a few hours. Oil looks good in engine and velvet drive. I want to convert this to raw water cool and add a kicker for when the 302 finally dies. I tried to turn the motor with a ratchet on front nut; wouldn't budge.

Plenty of wet foam under the floor. Will break it up with a spade bit on a drill and vacuum it out. Probably will fill void with empty soda bottles and expanding foam.

Please chime in.
Check starter wiring connections and charge status of battery(ies). The connections on the actual starter can sometimes look clean and tight, but still have some corrosion. Unfortunately most inboard starters are difficult to reach, unless you have one of the rare engines with a top rear mount starter. Use a long extension on a socket wrench and loosen the nuts (much easier if you do not have to completely remove the nuts), carefully rotate the wire terminals, apply some lubricant and re-tighten the nuts. You may have to remove the starter to check the connections and starter. There are previous posts about using a short section of all thread rod to facilitate starter removal and re-installation.

If you are concerned that the engine has locked up, disconnect ignition wire and belts, and attempt to slightly rotate crankshaft (correct rotation) with a large socket and breaker bar.
 
Last edited:

Island pilot

Well-Known Member
Sep 5, 2016
51
0
Thanks Fishineer. I have a charged battery and a jump from my truck. We have gotten about 1/8” of rotation with each start attempt. WD40 in cylinders and plugs removed. We have one attempt with about 1/4 rotation. I will keep trying once a day.
 

Island pilot

Well-Known Member
Sep 5, 2016
51
0
I am pulling the engine today. I will use a chain fall. Do I remove the transmission while its hanging on the chain? How do I get it on the engine stand with the transmission in the way?
 

fishineer

Well-Known Member
Jul 31, 2011
198
26
Wilmington, NC
I am pulling the engine today. I will use a chain fall. Do I remove the transmission while its hanging on the chain? How do I get it on the engine stand with the transmission in the way?
If it was me I would leave the transmission connected to the engine. They are heavy at least 600 - 750 lbs. Lift slowly in case you need to adjust lifting points. The engine without the transmission and resting on just the front mounts without exhaust manifolds and risers requires the front to be supported or the rear weighted/tied-down.
 

Island pilot

Well-Known Member
Sep 5, 2016
51
0
So what is an engine mount for? Rebuilding the block?

Once the engine and transmission is swinging from a chain should I remove the transmission?
 

fishineer

Well-Known Member
Jul 31, 2011
198
26
Wilmington, NC
Sorry, I was thinking you were removing the engine for the type of repairs that will take several days. Depends on what you what you intend to repair and remove. Just make sure you plan things out. If you are just changing the starter you might consider blocking it temporarily while you replace the starter. I do not pull the engine to replace the starter- but it can be a knuckle buster. My point was if you are going to work on the engine and transmission and block them on timbers, when you separate the engine and transmission the forward weight of the engine can cause it to tip over.
 

Island pilot

Well-Known Member
Sep 5, 2016
51
0
Sorry, I was thinking you were removing the engine for the type of repairs that will take several days. Depends on what you what you intend to repair and remove. Just make sure you plan things out. If you are just changing the starter you might consider blocking it temporarily while you replace the starter. I do not pull the engine to replace the starter- but it can be a knuckle buster. My point was if you are going to work on the engine and transmission and block them on timbers, when you separate the engine and transmission the forward weight of the engine can cause it to tip over.
Fishineer, Thanks for the info. I am actually swapping engines. I have a I/O 302, rebuilt, to drop in. First I have to swap the transmission to the new one.
 

Gary S

Well-Known Member
Feb 4, 2010
1,596
156
Algonquin Illinois,Key Largo Florida
Build yourself a cradle out of 2X8 24 1/2" wide by 4' long that is how they come from the factory. It will sit on the mounts just like it's in the boat. You then can take the weight off the rear of the engine pull the trans and in it's place put in a aluminum angle.


100_2329.JPG 100_2327.JPG 100_2326.JPG
 
Last edited:

fishineer

Well-Known Member
Jul 31, 2011
198
26
Wilmington, NC
Did you encounter a bulkhead at the forward edge of the cut? I would have assumed the foamed compartments extend to the bulkhead forward of the engine bay.
 


Latest posts

Top