Yeah, sounds like what Ship mentions. Or possibly he forgot to put in a block off plate when he installed that side, maybe just used gaskets? Not too a big deal to open that up and check/replace gaskets and block plate.
Good advice from from Ship. I'd add... check the age of the hose, no big deal to replace the whole line with one run from racor to fuel pump. Also, at your main filter, Racor or other, check barb fittings and make sure you're NOT using white teflon tape or thread sealant. That degrades with...
First thing I would do is check and change the transmission fluid. Always start with the easiest and check them off the list as you go. Also, look at the shaft coupler, and loose bolts or wear/slop? Then confirm alignment is good, after that I'd consider opening it up to check the damper plate...
My 20' open, 1986 had wet foam. I cut three small "hatches" in each side of the deck and removed the foam. If I was to do it again I would cut the entire section out in one piece. There are no bulkheads, besides the one separating the gas tanks. The forward sections are all foam. I used an angle...
Here you go... https://skidim.com/bracket-mount-5-7-port.html
There's one for the starboard site too, https://skidim.com/bracket-mount-5-7-starboard.html. they are different. Unfortunately there is no picture on the site, but these are what you want to get the same footprint
I rebuilt my original rear motor mounts as those are connected to the original Borg Werner 1:1 tranny. Then I bought custom front mounts from http://www.skidim.com They are made to fit Chevy blocks but give you the same footprint as the original Ford Pleasurecraft. Vance at Skidim will know...
I cut three access holes on each side which will be glassed back in after the new foam goes in. then used a saws-all, flat bar, and a homemade hand saw (oak stick with long saws-all blade taped to it) to go at the foam. Had to cut and pry small chunks at at time. Took about 18-20 hours total...
looks like you hit a few of the same issues I'm looking at. #1 batteries, don't think they'll be able to go back where they were, on the shelf in the console. #2 Strainer, might have to mo e or re-plum that as my Crusader has a remote oil filter that's in the way of my current set up. #3 Tight...
Yes, it's not 100% ready, still waiting on the carb rebuild and figuring out some plumbing for the closed system. What did you end up doing with your heat exchanger, front or rear mount?
I'm also rebuilding the engine beds and have to replace the foam below deck, I removed about 400 lbs of wet...
Does anyone have pictures from Lep's Engine thread? I know there were some issues when the site/s moved from Fishtheclassic a few years back. I'm not finding anything in searches.
I spent all day yesterday removing rotted engine beds on my 20' and am wondering if I'll go back with the fur 4x8...
Mike, I just texted you. Unfortunately, sold the pump & spare. I do still have the carb though.
I can't seem to edit the post to remove sold items, kind of a pain, sorry.
Some stuff sold, this stuff is still available, and I have front engine mount brackets too. As well a set of risers that are 2 seasons old, those can go for $50 plus what ever shipping is.
Timing chain cover - $50
Faria gauges were stock on Shamrocks, I won't allow Sierra parts on my boat or at least try to avoid at all costs!
The grey wire should be your tach lead from the coil. I'm sure you have, but check all wire leads for corrosion and or loose connections. Pertronix flame thrower coils have built in...
Good point! I’ve been rwc for so long, and never dealt with a closed system. I wonder at what point hose lengths start affecting pump efficiency? A couple feet shouldn’t make a ton of difference I don’t think