270 open trailer

Discussion in 'General Conversation' started by Randy Bivins, Nov 27, 2019.

  1. Randy Bivins

    Randy Bivins Member

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    I bought a 270 open on a 2017 loadmaster trailer my problem is it sets bow down bad the transom is so high it won’t drain rain water unless you have it on a steep hill I know it’s for rudder clearance but my question is has anyone else had this problem or maybe post some pics of yours on the trailer so I might get some ideas what to do about it.
     
  2. fisherlady2

    fisherlady2 Well-Known Member

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    For our 26'er we had a trailer made with a special rear cross member which the venture guy called a ski boat cross member.
    I don't know if you can replace the rear beam, I would expect most metal shops should be able to fabricate and install something similar.
    IMG_20170529_150228.jpg

    It allows boat to sit pretty well.
    20180609_121844-2.jpg
     
  3. Captain Starbucks

    Captain Starbucks Well-Known Member

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    Hi Randy, I have the same problem on my 2001 Mackinaw 270. Due to hull design, I think you'll find the only solution is to install a drain plug just forward of the engine. I did that after dealing with a constantly wet bilge. I couldn't be happier.
     
  4. Randy Bivins

    Randy Bivins Member

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  5. Skagitnative

    Skagitnative Active Member

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    Rob,

    You thru hulled for a drain plug in from of the engine? I am so dam tired of my wet bilge lol... I need to modify my deck drains still and am having a hard time finding the thread with pics of someone upsizing the holes and lines to 1", as I not sure which parts to purchase.
     
  6. Captain Starbucks

    Captain Starbucks Well-Known Member

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    Yes, I drilled a hole right through the bottom of the boat. A big hole. I wasn't happy about doing it, but after I did I was relieved to get all the water out once and for all. I was really surprised at how thick the hull was. I'll have to measure it ( I saved the core, it's impressive!) but if my memory is correct, it's around an inch of solid glass.

    I basically just used a transom drain and flush head hex brass plug. The drains are relatively inexpensive, less than $20 or so I think. I didn't order the kit with the plug since the countersunk plug was really expensive for some reason. I just went to the local hardware store and bought several flush plugs with hex heads in brass for only $5 or $6 each. The threads are standard 1/2" NPT. Easy to find at any hardware store.

    There are at least two different places to drill and install. On my 270, I drilled just forward of the crankshaft dampener for 2 reasons. That was about the lowest spot, and ease of access. Yes, I drilled from the bottom up, but wanted to be able to get to the plug from the topside should I have to stuff something in the hole for whatever reason for that time I launch and forget to install the plug. There are those that have, and those that will, and those that will again, right? Anyway, I drilled on the very bottom/centerline of the hull. Joel had his done on his 26, and they drilled it just off the side of the very bottom. I'm assuming that in case you hit a log or something the bottom of the hull would strike instead of the drain.

    I then sealed with 5200. It's a pain to crawl underneath there and undo the plug after every trip, but having a dry bilge is so nice. Especially when you're storing the boat all winter and trying to get the humidity low. I just couldn't do it before. Now with a dry bilge and little dehumidifier, I'm happy.

    Something else I do when towing the boat home and I'm able to wash at the ocean, is drain the bilge, wash the boat, then reinstall the plug, throw some soap and water in the bilge, drive home and then drain again. My bilge is now spotless!

    Don't use brass screws. I wanted to due to dissimilar metal corrosion, but they are just too soft. I used stainless, which isn't normally all that strong unless you use the outer space grade stuff (which I happen to have access to...). Cover all hardware with 5200 and encapsulate the hardware and you won't have a problem with corrosion.

    I also drilled out my deck drains around the lazarrette per Ken/Fishwitch's instructions before I ever launched the boat for the first time. Parts are simple, again any hardware store will have them. It's not the end all fix for the lazzarette drain, but it makes it less problematic. Most of the deck drain problems I had weren't from crap getting in there while I was using the boat, but crap getting in there while the boat was stored.

    Rob
     
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  7. Gary P

    Gary P Active Member

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    Find a good trailer dealer in your area. Not sure where you are. Have them re-align the bunks raising the forward end of each and then raise the forward rollers. Don't go drilling extra holes in your boat. The boat looks like she is sitting a bit too far forward on the trailer already. There looks to be an abundance of clearance aft too. It may just be the pictures. You have plenty of room on that trailer.
     
  8. Captain Starbucks

    Captain Starbucks Well-Known Member

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    Randy,

    You can try what Gary P recommends and hopefully it works for you. I have an infinitely adjustable trailer, and I adjusted it quite a few times, and tried jacking the tongue to the moon. The 27 isn't the same as the 26. Judging by the depth of water I had in there, I'd say there's a 4 to 6 inch difference in the lowest spot and the transom drain holes. That's a lot of adjusting...

    Good luck and report back.

    Rob
     
  9. Gary P

    Gary P Active Member

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    IMG_1253.JPG
    Different system. Same concept.
     
  10. Fish Witch

    Fish Witch Well-Known Member

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    Post #22 of this thread has the info on my drain mods for the 270

    http://www.shamrockboatownersclub.com/forums/threads/water-in-my-bilge.31614/page-3#post-271277

    I was constantly getting bloody deck crap plugging those drains but no more, though I keep my boat under cover during her layup period so no leaves, etc to worry about, which you'll have to contend with keeping your boat on a trailer.

    Glad to answer any questions on the drain mod. I've got pics somewhere if that would help.
     

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